Ebinyuma Ebyaffe: An Enchanting Travel Guide to Sunday Strolling Through Kampala City with Elly Wamala

Immerse yourself in the captivating melodies of Elly Wamala's timeless composition, "Ebinyuma ebyaffe," which loosely translated to “Our happy Places”. It serves as a melodic invitation for city adventurers to discover the vibrant architectural gems of Kampala, the capital city of Uganda. Written and sung in Luganda, "Ebinyuma Ebyaffe" was skillfully composed and performed by the revered musician and guitarist, Elly Wamala, in 1998. From the early 1990s until his passing in 2004, Wamala left an indelible mark on Uganda's music scene. His musical legacy lives on, as many contemporary artists continue to revisit and reinterpret his timeless songs, ensuring that his contributions endure.

"Intriguing Sights and Nostalgic Gems Along Kampala Road"

Elly Wamala's soulful vocals set the tone as he begins to paint a vivid picture, transporting us back to the vibrant entertainment scene of 1960s Kampala.  In his song, he mentions iconic places like LaQuinta bar and the Norman Cinema, built in the 1950s, both found on Kampala Road, now known as Watoto Church, as seen below.

Inspired by this song, I embarked on a city exploration with my eight-year-old son, Arie Jayden, eager to discover the architectural heritage and marvels that lie between these referenced locations. From colonial-era buildings that echo Uganda's historical connections to modern structures with glass facades that symbolize the city's urban growth, Kampala road offers a visual feast for architecture enthusiasts, transporting us to the vibrant streets of the 1960s and 1970s while simultaneously embracing the present-day charm of Kampala.

Our exploration commenced at Thobani Building, a stunning contemporary structure with an elegant glass facade that was opened in 2018, as showcased in the photo below.

Directly opposite stands Crown House with palm trees adorning its front, a remarkable establishment that now occupies the former site of LaQuinta bar—a place immortalized in Elly Wamala's song.

From this vantage point, Nsambya Hill, one of the picturesque hills on which Kampala is situated, can be admired in the far distance.

At this juncture, my companion's excitement soared as he marveled at the elevated view of Kampala and the seemingly toy-sized cars below, contrasting with his experiences back home.

"Exploring Streets with a Child: A Unique Perspective and Delightful Curiosity"

Walking alongside a child alters your pace, allowing you to appreciate the intricate details of the streets while also providing a fresh perspective through their inquisitive nature. With numerous questions on their lips, they unveil a world of wonder. Continuing our stroll, we made our way up to Colville Street, passing through the Total petrol station, in search of a vantage point to admire Uganda House. The photo below captures the scene from a higher elevation, offering a captivating view of this iconic building.

"Uganda House: A Towering Legacy of Uganda's Political History"

 

"Wow, that is a tall building," Arie exclaimed. Uganda House, constructed between 1969 and 1980, stands as the headquarters of the Uganda People's Congress, once the dominant political party in the country. This remarkable 15-storey tower's history is intricately intertwined with Uganda's turbulent 1970s. Construction commenced during Dr. Milton Obote's first presidency, and despite the political shifts that followed, including Idi Amin's rise to power, the work continued under President Idi Amin's regime. Finally, in 1980, during Dr. Milton Obote's second presidency, construction was completed, solidifying Uganda House as a testament to the nation's enduring political journey.

 

At the top point of the total petrol station, facing away from Uganda house, you'll find the iconic Ebenezer Building, constructed in 1937. This historical landmark is home to the renowned Uganda Book Shop, founded in 1927, as depicted in the photo below.

Continuing Elly Wamala's musical expedition, we crossed Colville Road and descended towards the Diamond Trust Building, located opposite the bronze aluminum-clad Cham Towers on Kampala Road, as shown below.

At the time of Ebinyumu Ebyaffe was released, Cham Towers was known as Uganda Commercial Bank, completed in 1979. In the mid-2000s, it was acquired by Standard Bank of South Africa and housed Stanbic Bank. Later, it was sold to Karim Hirji, who renamed it Cham Towers in honor of his late wife. Under the new name, extensive renovations were undertaken, transforming the building into a shopping mall and offices. The original brutalist façade was replaced with an elegant new façade adorned with aluminum cladding.

 

Standing in close proximity to Cham Towers is Insurance House, which adds to the allure of Kampala Road with its remarkable presence. This architectural gem exhibits a splendid example of colonial-style construction, reminiscent of the bygone era of the 1960s.

At the bridge of "Ebibyumu Ebyaffe," Wamala's lyrics beautifully capture the vibrant essence of the city, its bustling streets, and the harmonious coexistence of its diverse communities. This vibrant energy is palpable at the junction where Entebbe Road meets Kampala Road, where bodabodas deftly navigate through the blue-striped commuter taxis, while pedestrians traverse the same streets.

 

At this point, one's gaze can be drawn to the distinguished Absa Bank building (formerly Barclays), an architectural gem from the 1960s. With its colonial-style design, as seen in the photo below, the building boasts Roman arched windows that add a touch of elegance and charm to its facade.

At the end of the insurance house, one can have a side view of the Diamond Trust building.  Completed in the 1970s, this architectural marvel serves as the head office for Diamond Trust Bank (photo below), while also accommodating several other offices.

Daddy," Arie exclaimed, capturing my attention. "Yes, Arie," I responded. "Look at the colors, those are zebra colors!" he observed, pointing towards Zebra Plaza across the road opposite the insurance house. Before us is Zebra Plaza, one of my favorite contemporary commercial buildings, housing retail shops and offices on Kampala Road.  It amuses me that it is situated right at a zebra crossing! while also symbolizing my affinity for nature and the colors, black and white.

It’s 11:20 am, and we realized we would be running late for the midday service at Watoto Church. Hastily crossing at Baroda Bank, we made our way to Amber House to catch a glimpse of the monument honoring Sekabaka Edward Mutesa of Buganda.

Elly Wamala's talent was often sought after, and he was frequently invited to perform at Lubiri, Kabaka Mutesa's palace during the 1960s. It would be a disservice to his memory and this exploration if we overlooked the significance of this monument situated in front of Amber House, which was completed in 1953.

 

To get to the Watoto church on time,  we got onto a boda boda, paying homage to one of their songs, bodaboda. The distance from our starting point to the end point covers approximately 1.26 miles, featuring an easy gradient that allowed for a leisurely pace, taking about 35-40 minutes to complete.

Sundays should be more than just church. Stroll through Kampala's streets, admire the architecture, explore buildings, and appreciate the views. Observe passersby, nesting birds, and enjoy the post-church ambiance. A rejuvenating stroll can prepare you for the upcoming week, revitalizing your soul and energizing your spirit.